Threads

The most common thread weights for quilting are:

100 wt.: Ultra fine for hand and machine appliqué, invisible thread, stitch-in-the-ditch (Silk #100 and Invisible Thread)

60 wt.: Fine for bobbin thread, quilting where stitches will blend, and fine applique (Precision, Soft Touch)

50 wt.: Standard for piecing, sewing, and quilting (Dream Seam, Perfection)

40 wt.: Medium for decorative quilting and visible stitches (Majestic, QuiltMaker, Elite, Variations)

24-30 wt.: Heavy for dramatic texture and bold quilting (Longarm Pro, Unlimited Universal)

Remember: The higher the weight number, the finer the thread. A 60 wt. thread is much thinner than a 30 wt. thread.

Learn more about thread weight by reading our educational article, The Guide to Choosing the Right Thread

Both have advantages and should be used. There is no "one is better than the other" argument to make. Some quilters prefer cotton threads for their matte finish, natural fiber, and the fact that the thread fiber matches the fabric.

Others prefer polyester threads for their variety of sheens, weights, and strengths. Many polyester threads are lint-free, which is a benefit when longarm or machine quilting.

We use Giza-class, 100% Egyptian-grown extra-long staple cotton in our Dream Seam, Majestic, and Hand Quilting threads for strength and low lint. Our Elite polyester thread features trilobal fibers for exceptional sheen and durability. Our QuiltMaker polyester thread has a strong polyester filament core wrapped in a soft spun polyester shell. Our Perfection, Precision, and Variations polyester threads are made from smooth, lint-free filament polyester. The choices are nearly endless, and we encourage you to try them all to find what you like best.

Read our educational article on Cotton vs. Polyester

Broken threads while quilting and sewing are typically caused by one of these issues:

Thread delivery: Sometimes, the top thread will come out of the take-up lever or thread guides, which causes the thread to break or skipped stitches. Rethread your top thread, ensuring it goes through the appropriate thread guides and take-up lever.

Bad/wrong needle: Replace the current needle with a new one, sized appropriately for your thread weight. A 40 wt. thread works well with a #90/14 needle, while a 50 wt. thread with a #80/12 needle.

Tension problems: If your top tension is too tight, the thread can easily break. Start with your machine's default tension (typically 5.0 for home machines) and don't be afraid to reduceit. You can always revert to the default setting. Remember that decorative threads generally need looser tension.

Thread quality: Low-quality threads, such as short staple cotton or spun polyester, produce excessive lint, which causes friction and can lead to shredding. Use quality threads; your machine will thank you

Speed: Slow down! If the needle is correct, the thread path is clear, the tension is balanced, and you're still experiencing broken threads, slow down your stitch per minute. This is especially relevant for embroidery machines and longarm machines.

Read our educational article on Tips for Balanced Tension

This primarily comes down to user preference. You'll find many quilters and sewists who use the same thread top and bottom; others use the same bobbin thread (weight and color) for everything; and still others match color but not thread type (different fibers or weights). The advice we hear most often from seasoned quilters is:

Match the bobbin and top thread when you want the same color on both sides, when quilting reversible projects, or when using decorative thread visible on the back.

Use a different bobbin thread when you want decorative thread on top, but don't need the back of the quilt to be equally decorative. Prewound bobbins are extremely convenient, and thanks to the way they are wound, they hold up to 70% more thread than self-wound bobbins.

A lint-free 60 wt. filament polyester thread (Precision) is an excellent bobbin thread to use for a variety of appliqué, embroidery, quilting, and sewing applications.

We encourage you to try different fiber types, thread weights, and colors to find what you like best.

Proper thread storage prevents degradation and extends thread life. High-quality threads that are manufactured today will last a very long time. These aren't grandma's threads from fifty years ago that you inherited. Advances in processing and raw materials have greatly enhanced embroidery, quilting, and sewing threads. We have a few recommendations for keeping your thread in its best state, so it's ready for you to use for years to come:

Keep away from direct sunlight: UV rays fade colors and weaken fibers.

Store in a cool, dry place: Heat and humidity damage thread over time.

Mercerizing and gassing are finishing processes that transform raw cotton thread into high-quality quilting and sewing thread.

Mercerizing involves treating cotton fibers with a solution, typically sodium hydroxide, under tension. This function swells the fibers, resulting in a stronger thread with better dye absorption (uniform color throughout) and a subtle sheen.

Gassing is the process of quickly passing a thread over a flame to burn off excess surface fuzz or lint. This creates a smoother thread that produces less lint in your machine and stitches more cleanly through fabric.

Our cotton threads (Dream Seam, Majestic, Machine Quilting Thread, Soft Touch) are both mercerized and gassed. You'll notice the difference in how smoothly they stitch and how little lint they produce compared to unmercerized or ungassed cotton threads.

Read our educational article on Understanding Thread Terminology

Most home sewing machines ship from the factory with tension set to approximately 5.0. This is the baseline tension used by machine manufacturers for quality assurance testing.

Some quilters and sewists feel nervous about adjusting their top tension because they fear that they won't be able to "get back to the start". This default setting, 5.0, is the baseline you can always return to.

If you see bobbin thread coming through the top of the fabric, experience eyelashes, or railroad tracks, your top tension is likely too tight. Reduce it by 1-2 full numbers and stitch again. Continue refining by tightening/loosening until the top and bobbin threads are evenly balanced in your quilt sandwich.

If your top thread is being pulled through to the bottom of the quilt sandwich, or you experience birds' nests (a collection of thread bunching in the needle plate or bobbin area), the top tension is likely too loose. Increase (tighten) it by 1-2 full numbers, and refine as needed.

Read our educational article on Mastering Top Tension