Olfa Chenille Cutter

byAnnie's lightweight mesh fabric is perfect for see-through pockets on bags, pouches, and organizers. The mesh is specially coated to be less slippery and easier to work with while staying soft and pliable. You can see exactly what you're storing without opening every pocket.

When sewing with mesh, position it on the bottom so the feed dogs help move it through your machine. Since you're essentially sewing through air, stitch each seam twice for a secure hold. Finish raw edges with fabric binding or fold-over elastic for a clean look and added durability. The mesh is 100% polyester, washer- and dryer-safe, and can be pressed on medium heat. Each package (18" x 54") provides plenty for multiple small projects.

Shop our byAnnie Mesh Fabric to get started on your next bag project.

Change your blade when cutting becomes a struggle rather than a smooth motion. The telltale signs are: having to go over the same spot two or three times because the blade skipped threads; frayed or fuzzy fabric edges instead of clean cuts; pressing harder than usual; or small, uncut spots appearing along your cutting line.

There's no set timeline for blade changes, as it depends entirely on how much you cut and the fabrics you're working with. Tightly woven fabrics like batiks dull blades faster than standard quilting cotton. A nicked blade should be replaced immediately since it can damage your cutting mat. To extend blade life, clean it regularly to remove lint and fiber buildup, and if you do paper piecing, keep a separate older blade just for cutting paper.

The right stabilizer depends on how structured you want your finished bag to be. Here's a quick guide to the most common options:

• Soft and Stable is well-loved for its flexibility.
• Fusible Fleece (like Pellon 987F): Adds soft padding and a cushioned feel. Ideal for slouchy totes and bags that need some body without stiffness.
• Fusible Foam (like Bosal FF78F1): Provides substantial padding plus firmness while staying flexible. Perfect for camera bags, backpacks, and diaper bags that require a firm hold.
• Decovil Light: Creates a smooth, almost leather-like finish. Use this for structured bags, wallets, and projects that require a clean, professional look.
• Lightweight Fusible Woven (e.g., Pellon SF101): Adds subtle stability without altering drape. Great for lightweight bags made from quilting cotton.
• Craf-Tex: A heavyweight stiff stabilizer for maximum structure. Works well for fabric boxes, rigid handbags, and items that need to stand on their own.

Start by deciding whether you want your bag soft and flexible or firm and structured, then choose the stabilizer that matches.

Three features set topstitch needles apart from universal or quilting needles. First, the extra-large eye is nearly twice the size of a universal needle's eye, giving your thread room to move without friction. This alone prevents most thread breakage and shredding. Second, the deeper groove shields your thread as it passes through multiple layers of fabric and batting. Third, the titanium coating keeps the point sharper up to 8x longer than standard nickel-plated needles, so you're not constantly changing needles.

The rounded sharp point works beautifully on quilting cotton fabrics and won't tear holes. Many quilters keep only topstitch needles in their sewing room, just changing sizes based on thread weight: #70/10 for fine threads like 100 wt. silk and monofilament, #80/12 for 50 wt. piecing threads, #90/14 for 40 wt. quilting threads, and #100/16 for heavier 30 wt. threads. One needle style for piecing, quilting, applique, binding, and everything in between.

Shop our Titanium-Coated Topstitch Needles in all sizes.

Quilting rulers (also called templates) let you create precise, repeatable shapes and lines while free-motion quilting. To get started, you need a ruler foot attachment and your machine set up for free-motion quilting. Position your ruler on the quilt, press it against the ruler foot, and gently guide both the quilt and the ruler through your machine.

Ruler thickness matters for compatibility. Low-shank home machines (such as Singer Heavy Duty with snap-on feet) use 1/8" rulers. High-shank machines (Janome Horizon series, Juki TL series, newer Berninas) and longarm machines require 1/4" rulers. Longarm machines also need a ruler base that locks onto the machine to prevent the ruler from tipping into the needle.

A few tips for success: Add grip strips to the back of your rulers to prevent them from slipping while you're guiding the quilt. If you're working on a home machine, a drop-in sewing table or cabinet gives you a flat surface to support the ruler smoothly.

Browse our quilting rulers and templates.

A stiletto is like having an extra finger that can get much closer to the needle and iron than your real fingers ever should. This tapered tool helps you guide fabric, hold seams flat, and safely manipulate small details.

At the sewing machine, use your stiletto to help the fabric start moving under the presser foot at the beginning of seams so the edge doesn't jam into the throat plate. It's also invaluable for holding seam allowances flat as you stitch across intersections, preventing them from flipping the wrong direction. Use the iron to open seams, manipulate mitered corners, and handle fusible appliqué without burning your fingertips.

Beyond these basics, a stiletto helps you turn under applique edges, poke out stubborn collar points, and even pick apart small seams when a seam ripper won't fit. Keep the cap on when you're not using it, since the point is sharp, and never stitch over it, as you might with a pin.

Find a stiletto for your sewing toolkit.

Start with the right setup: install a zipper foot on your machine and use nylon zippers, which you can safely sew across. Measure your bag opening and choose a zipper slightly smaller, leaving a 1-2-inch gap on each side for a clean finish.

The layering method makes zipper installation much easier. Place your outer fabric right side up, lay the zipper face down along the edge, then place your lining fabric face down on top. Sew through all three layers, then press open. The zipper ends up neatly sandwiched between your outer fabric and lining. If you're working with lightweight or floppy fabric, fuse interfacing to the wrong side first for stability.

A few finishing tips: angle the zipper tape into the seam allowance at each end so all raw edges are enclosed in the final seam. When stitching across the closed end of the zipper, sew back and forth a couple of times to secure it. Also try to align any straps or seams on opposite sides of the bag for a polished look.

Shop our collection of bag-making zippers.