Invisible Thread Poly Combo Pack
What Our Customers Love
Join thousands of satisfied quilters and sewists who trust YLI Threads for their projects. Here's what they're saying:
I love this thread! Smooth stitches with absolutely no lint. Perfect for my longarm machine.
My joy of quilting is back! This thread doesn't knot or tangle. Excellent quality.
Fast shipping and excellent customer service. The staff was incredibly helpful. Will definitely order again!
This is the best quality of thread I have ever used. It doesn't get snarled up as I work and it has never broken on me.
Frequently Asked Questions
Invisible Thread - Frequently Asked Questions
Both are monofilament threads (a single, non-twisted strand), but they're designed for different applications.
The key difference is thickness and strength. Wonder Invisible Nylon measures 4/1000 of an inch (for reference, human hair ranges from 3 to 6/1000 of an inch). It's extra-fine and remarkably flexible, making it ideal for machine applique on home machines. As one quilter put it, it's "nice and flexible, easier to handle than others I've tried."
Invisible Thread Poly is slightly thicker at 5/1000 of an inch. That extra 1/1000 inch may sound small, but it boosts tensile strength by about 50%. This makes it a favorite among longarm quilters who need durability for high-speed quilting. One longarm quilter shared, "This thread ran very well in my long arm. I would recommend it to anyone who asks."
Quick guide: For home machine applique, choose Wonder Invisible Nylon (flexibility matters). For longarm stitch-in-the-ditch, choose Invisible Thread Poly (strength matters). Both threads require loose top tension (around 1.0) and a Topstitch #70/10 needle for best results.
Stitch-in-the-ditch is meant to be invisible. You're quilting right in the seam line where your stitches should disappear, letting the piecing design take center stage. Monofilament thread achieves exactly that. It vanishes into the seam without you having to match thread colors to every fabric in the quilt top.
For longarm machines, we recommend Invisible Thread Poly. It's polyester monofilament at 5/1000 inch thick, about 50% stronger than our nylon version. This extra strength handles the speed and tension of longarm quilting without frustrating breakage.
One customer shared her experience: "I used this thread for the first time on a kingsize quilt. I only had one break through the entire quilt!"
Setup tips for your longarm: Skip two of the three holes in your three-hole thread guide. Use a #14 (3.0) needle. Loosen the tensioner until thread pulls through with little resistance.
The efficiency benefit is real too. No more stopping to change thread colors as you move across different fabrics. One thread, one setup, consistent results.
Wonder Invisible Nylon is one of our most popular threads for invisible applique, and quilters have strong opinions about why.
At 4/1000 of an inch, it's extra-fine, even thinner than 100 wt. thread. The matte finish eliminates that telltale shine some monofilament threads leave behind. One quilter described it perfectly: "This is really great thread. It's soft and invisible. No shiny reflection."
The flexibility is what makes it work so beautifully for applique. The thread moves naturally with your fabric without adding stiffness, and it holds your applique pieces securely while disappearing into the background. Another quilter summed it up: "Perfect for applique. No need to change thread."
What quilters love most is how it "simply vanishes into the top and looks great." Your applique design becomes the star, not your stitching.
For best results with invisible applique: Use a Topstitch #70/10 needle (the large eye protects the thread). Set your top tension to 1.0 (loose is key). Position the spool on a vertical pin (Wonder Invisible is stack-wound, so thread should unwind from the side). Test on scrap fabric before starting your project.
The needle choice can make or break your experience with invisible thread. Topstitch needles solve the problems quilters run into with monofilament.
Monofilament thread is a single strand (not twisted like regular thread), which makes it behave differently as it passes through your machine. Three features of Topstitch needles address this:
First, the double-size eye gives monofilament room to move without friction. This is the biggest factor in preventing breakage.
Second, the deeper groove along the needle shaft protects the single-strand thread as it travels through the fabric. Think of it as a protective channel.
Third, the rounded sharp point is not razor-sharp like Microtex needles, not rounded like ballpoint. This balanced point passes through fabric cleanly without damaging the delicate monofilament.
The #70/10 size is fine enough to work with thin monofilament (4-5/1000 inch thick). For longarm machines, use a #14 (3.0) needle instead.
One quilter shared her turning point: "The tips on lowering top tension and using the size 70 top stitching needle has made freemotion stitching fun at last."
Bonus tip: Our titanium-coated topstitch needles last up to 8x longer than standard needles, at just 20 cents more per needle.
Your bobbin doesn't need to match your top thread. In fact, most quilters prefer a different approach.
We recommend Precision 60 wt. polyester thread in your bobbin. Here's why this pairing works so well:
Fine enough to stay hidden: At 60 wt., Precision is thin enough that it won't show through to your quilt top, even with invisible thread on top.
Lint-free: Monofilament threads don't produce lint, and neither does Precision. Your machine stays cleaner, which means fewer tension issues and less maintenance.
Consistent tension: The smooth, filament polyester winds evenly and feeds consistently through your machine.
One quilter noted that invisible thread "worked great, even in the bobbin," but for most applications, we find the Precision pairing gives better results with less fuss.
For extra convenience: Precision prewound bobbins hold up to 70% more thread than self-wound bobbins and maintain consistent tension throughout. They're available in M-style for longarm machines and Class 15 for most home machines.
Color guidance: Stick with neutral colors. White works for light fabrics, black or charcoal for dark fabrics, and medium gray is a good all-purpose option when you're quilting across mixed light and dark fabrics.